The first British tourists allowed to return to North Korea to tell the BBC what they saw

Don’t insult the leader. Don’t insult ideology. And don’t judge.

These are the rules leading to Western tourists who are ready to cross the border into North Korea, arguably the most secret and oppressive country in the world.

Then there is practical information. No telephone signal, no internet, no toller.

“North Koreans are not robots. They have opinions, goals and a sense of humor. In our briefing, we encourage people to listen and understand them.” said Rowan Beard, who runs the young Pioneer Tours, one of two Western companies, who resumed harassment for five years last week.

North Korea blocked borders at the beginning of the pandemic, shutting down diplomats, aid workers and travelers, and it was almost impossible to know what was going on there.

Since then, it has relied on Russia and China to further isolate much of the world. Many people doubt whether Westerners will be allowed to come back.

But after years of coaxing and several fake starts, Rowan and some other travel agencies were given a green light to start the operation again. He gathered a group of eager travelers in just five hours, desperate to miss this opportunity. Most are Vloggers and Travel Addicts, and some want to tick the last country with strange North Korean enthusiasts.

Last Thursday, tourists from the UK, France, Germany and Australia drove across the border from China and entered the remote areas of Larsen for a four-night trip.

Among them is 28-year-old British YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy. Even with his reputation, he was shocked by the extreme control level. Like all trips to North Korea, visitors are escorted by local guides, who follow a strict pre-approved schedule. It includes a well-organized brewery, a school and a new, ample pharmacy.

Ben Weston, one of Suffolk’s tourism leaders, compared to a “school trip” visiting North Korea. “You can’t leave the hotel without a guide,” he said.

“A few times, I even had to let them know when they wanted to use the bathroom,” Mike said. “I never did this anywhere in the world.”

Despite being with her company, Mike was able to discover clips from real life. “Everyone is working and feels like no one is just hanging out. It’s a bit bleak to see it.”

During his trip to school, a group of eight-year-olds danced toward the ballistic missile animation. The spectacle video shows the boy and boys in red tie, singing while the explosion explodes on the screen behind them.

Currently, tourists are far away from the capital Pyongyang. Greg Vaczi from Koryo Tours, another tour company allowed back, admitted that the current itinerary lacks Pyongyang’s “big hit monument”. He suspected that the authorities chose Rason as the guinea pig because the area was relatively inclusive and easy to control.

It is a special economic zone, trialing new financial policies, and it is a mini capitalist enclave within a socialist country. Chinese businessmen and North Koreans run joint ventures and are free to enter and exit.

Joe Smith is an experienced North Korean traveler and a former writer for North Korean expert platform NK News, on his third trip. He said: “I think the more you visit, the less you will be.

Joe’s highlight was a visit outside of a surprise visit to the luxury market where people sell jeans and perfumes, as well as fake Louis Vuitton handbags and Japanese washing machines, probably imported from China. Here, they suspect that tourists are not allowed to take photos – trying to hide this consumer bubble.

“It’s the only place people don’t expect us,” Joe said. “It feels messy, real; North Koreans actually went. I love it.”

But, according to experienced travel leaders, the organization’s movement is more restricted than previous travel, wandering the streets, entering barber shops or supermarkets, and talking to locals, according to experienced travel leaders.

Covid is often considered the cause, said Greg of Koryo Tours. “On the surface, they’re still worried. Our luggage is sterilized on the border, our temperatures are occupied, and about 50% of people are still wearing masks.” Greg couldn’t figure out whether the fear was real or the excuse to control people.

Considered Kuwid Fight North Korea hardalthough it is difficult to know the extent of suffering.

Local guides repeated the virus’s government line entering the country’s government in a balloon sent from South Korea and quickly eliminated the country within 90 days. But Rowan, who has been to North Korea more than 100 times, feels that Larsen is affected by the tough Kuved regulations. He said many Chinese businesses have been closed and their workers have left.

Even experienced North Korean traveler Joe commented on how the building was dilapidated. “There is no heating except in our hotel room,” he said. “It feels like they just opened the door for us.”

Joe said photos of the regime might make North Korea look clean and shiny, but you’ll realize for yourself: “The roads are terrible, the sidewalks are swaying, and the buildings are built strangely.” He said his hotel room was old-fashioned and dirty, similar to “grandmother’s living room.” The entire window was broken.

“They have been five years to solve the problem. North Koreans are very sensitive to the tourists they show. If it’s the best thing they can show, I’m afraid to think there’s something else there.” Most of the country is well preserved, One in 10 people think they are malnourished and need help.

One of the few opportunities for North Korean tourists to interact with locals is through their guides, who sometimes speak English. Despite the regime’s strong propaganda machine and information blockade, they have performed well in these recent trips. Greg said it might be because they talked to Chinese businessmen coming and going.

They know Trump’s tariffs and Ukraine’s wars – even North Korean troops are involved. But when Joe showed a photo from Syria, his guide was unaware that President Assad was overthrown. “I explained carefully that sometimes people don’t like their leaders and they rise up and force them out, and at first he doesn’t believe me.”

Such conversations need to be carefully handled. Strict laws prevent North Koreans from speaking freely. Ask or reveal too much, visitors may put their guide or themselves in danger.

Mike admits that it makes him nervous at times. During his trip to North Korea-Russian Friendship House, he was invited to write in a tourist book. “I left and wrote something ‘I want the world to be peaceful.’ Afterwards, my guide told me that it was something inappropriate and it made me paranoid.

“Usually, the guide is done well and makes us feel safe. I guess that’s weird.”

For Greg of Koryo Tours, these interactions bring a deeper purpose to North Korea’s tourism industry: “North Koreans have the opportunity to interact with foreigners. This allows them to come up with new ideas that are so important in this closed country.”

However, tourism to North Korea is controversial, especially when travelers are allowed to return before aid workers, including the UK, and most Western diplomats. Critics, including Joanna Hosaniak of North Korea’s Human Rights Citizens’ Union, believe the tours mainly benefit the regime.

“It’s not like tourism in other poor countries where locals benefit from the extra income. The vast majority of the population is unaware that these tourists exist. Their money goes to the state and eventually moves towards the military.”

A conversation fell into YouTuber Mike’s mind. During school, he was surprised when a girl saw him and she hoped to visit the UK one day. “I don’t have the heart to tell her that her chances are very, very slim,” he said.